You are pressed into the crush with people of all ages, stacks of boxes, 100-kilo sacks of rice and animal feed. Live chickens and pigs, their feet trussed, are lying almost on your feet. You slide open the window, but the young mother next to you promptly pushes it closed again even though the bemo is stifling. She, like other passengers, doesn’t want to risk masuk angin, an ailment characterized by cold-like symptoms and thought to be acquired through travel.